Friday, 16 April 2010

The Backwaters and The Beach

About 15 years ago I had a really vivid dream. Nothing happened in it - I just stepped out of a room onto a wooden deck over gently moving water with meandering river mist and dense overhanging greenery. Was intensely atmospheric and vivid and that dream stuck with me in a spooky kind of way. A few years later I read God of Small Things and it reminded me of that dream. It's a beautiful novel, set in Kerala, and I've wanted to come here ever since. Anyway, last night, whilst drifting along the narrow backwaters in a punt, I actually came across that place from my dream. Don't know why I'm telling you all this - I don't even believe in all that crap. Just saying, that's all.
Our riceboat was great, with four double, air-conditioned, en suite bedrooms. Three crew, including chef, spoilt us with fabulous food, tea, coffee and BEER (seven empty Kingfisher bottles were lined up outside our room next morning in a slightly accusatory manner). After supper Rich, Will and Joe fished off the bow with make-shift rods baited with bread dough. Will (6'4") squealed and did a little jig when he caught a fish and Richard went into a sulk. A flock of wild Egrets flew upstream and a flock of ducks floated downstream. Kingfishers are everywhere (the bird alas, not the beer).  Breakfast was omelettes, toast, fresh pineapple and bananas, whilst Rich dangled his vile fungus-ridden feet in the water and allowed the litle fish to nibble off the dead skin. Poor fish.
Next day we drove to Coir Village, still in the backwaters, and stayed on an island in a sort of paradise. We reached our room via a punt. Truly beautiful. Locals drifted about in punts on their way to do whatever they do. Make rope mostly I think.
Last stop Kovolam. Beautiful beach and Arabian Sea as warm as a bath. Lay about reading, swimming and burning for two days. Have run out of superlatives. Fabulous end to fabulous holiday. 

Next week in Lucewomangetsabout: Volcano erupts in Iceland! How will they get home?!  

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