Periyar

An interesting drive west, back across the plains and then south a bit before ascending the W Ghats again. Passed through a town called Cumbum. 'CUMBUM STATE PRIMARY SCHOOL'. Like you're really going to send your child THERE. 
Reached Periyar which is on the edge of a massive (770 sq km) National Park/Wildlife Sanctuary, and further into the park we found our campsite. Yes. I know. ME. CAMPsite. It's off season so we were the only guests. Late afternoon we went with guides into the core of the park, initially in a jeep and then on foot.
We were unbelievably lucky and happened upon a herd of wild elephants. The head of the herd and a female and her baby were grazing about 60 metres away and we quietly watched them. Suddenly the mama elephant became aware of us and turned, flapping her ears. It's incredible how fast you can run when a safari guide grabs your arm and hisses 'Danger! Move!'  I swear we literally DIVED into that jeep. Mother elephants and lone males are very dangerous and in fact we heard today that a tea worker was killed yesterday in Munnar, where we were walking in the tea gardens last week, by a lone male. Yikes.
Then there were the leeches. This is where I felt vindicated for bringing my gardening boots (oh how they had laughed at me). The little bastards can sense body heat and sort of tumble towards you. They secrete an anaesthetic so before you know it they've latched on, and you have no idea until they drop off, all fat a sated, leaving you to bleed to death.... Slight exaggeration, but it's true that you bleed like buggery because they also instil an anticoagulant. The Dawson/Gable girls escaped, but others weren't so lucky - Rich discovered at least a dozen trying to break into his trainers and poor Sally discovered to her cost that they also like to hang out under the toilet seat.
Back at the campsite we were served fabulous curries beside a campfire, before crawling into our tents for the night. I can't describe how crappily we all slept. Aside from the fact that I'm way too old and spoiled to sleep on the floor with no mattress, the noise was DEAFENING. Cicadas the size of ashtrays competed with frogs by the lake, which literally sounded like the Household Calvalry clipclopping by all night long. Massive insects bashed into the canvas and black monkeys whooped away in the treetops. Was like the Last Night of The Proms on acid. 
Was a fabulous surprise to find a swimming pool at the hotel in Periyar the next day, and we lazed about like proper Brits for the afternoon.
Later we wandered amongst the spice plantations - really interesting to see cardamom, nutmeg, peppercorns, cinnamon and cloves growing in gardens and smallholdings. Had supper at one of the villagers' houses.  Was served on banana leaves and cutlery wasn't provided so it was a pretty messy affair.
Early morning trek next day - saw black monkeys, White monkeys, giant squirrels and samba deer. No tigers though. Poor beautiful creatures too busy being poisoned by poachers. Did you know that in 1900 there were at least 40,000 tigers in India? Now there are about 3000. The illegal trade of animal skin and bones is second only to the drugs trade, and they're used largely for Chinese Medicine. HAVE NO PART IN IT I TELL YOU! I'd happily shoot the fuckers if I found them. Happily. And I don't even believe in capital punishment.
Had Aruyvedic massage. Hahahaha! Having spent a significant part of this holiday feeling like a harlot for showing my legs and shoulders, I went into a room with a strange woman who immediately insisted I strip completely NEKID! She then drenched me in oil and gave me a total body massage.  Which included breasts. Hahahaha! Was rather nice though. Would've been better if I could've stopped giggling at the thought of Grace in the next room. 
Meanwhile Rich went to watch some local marshal arts and Holly spent an hour on the Internet, reorganising her shredded personal life. 
Met up for dinner at restaurant which actually sold beer. 
Yay! Result!

(ps am writing whole of this travelblog on my phone so please excuse grammar/spelling mistakes)